Installing an Exterior Door

This is part one of two. I do show in the second video the shimming part.

How about instruction on adding an outside door with no existing door frame.

How can I replace a front door with 2 Sidelights with one sidelights. Can I buy another sidelight or how would I fill it in?

Hi Tim. So I assume the flashing replaces the use of silicone underneath the door in cases when flashing is not being used, right? thanks

Great video. I'm currently replacing just the exterior door slab. Door is the same dimensions as exsisting but in much better shape. I had to move the hinges on the door to match the exsisting location of the hinges on the jamb. Door is plumb and my gaps looks good, but when you go to close the door, it wants to spring open just before it hits jamb. Does this sound like a bent hinge? It wasn't doing this with exsisting door, only when I changed it. I did chisel the door itself so hinge is flush.

Most home-owner will have issues with adjusting the level of the door to the floor and also the installation of flashings. Great video Tim!

I thought that the last piece of flashing should of went down first, so the water wont hit the seam and go under. This is contrary to flashing installation theory. Or I may misunderstand?

I would think folks having trouble installing a door would watch this for some troubleshooting tips. Installing a door NEVER goes perfectly as this job shows. It would be nice to see what to do if the door was not plumb. Or dealing with an unlevel sill.

Glad to see that someone actually pays due attention to "waterproofing" (rather sealing for water intrusion) the sill. I am going even farther and installing a custombuilt galvanized flashing underneath the sticky flashing. Doors should actually last "a lifetime" and why cheat on maybe one of the most important areas.

However, I would not nail the jamb, but rather predrill the it and screw it into place. Make life easier down the road and only takes a few minutes extra.

Very helpful thanks!

Tim,
I plam on putting a new exterior doorsoon. The problem I have is the one you mention in this video. That is , the previous home owner put in harwood flooring and now we cannot have anything in front of the door because it will not open.
How do I deal with this when I measure for my new door? Do I make the opening bigger ? What is your advice? Thank you for great videos

John.

No offence, the video was well done, and i watched it all up until you showed the door put in. You should have had video of the shimming process and also I Did not see you use any calk on the bottom of the door.

My problems always arise when shimming, maybe my problem is not starting with a level and plumb frame on the hinge side.

Anyway, Tim show me the shimming PLEASE!

I've worked in construction and installed many prehung doors. I'm telling you that the info Tim gives in this video is spot on! There are some videos out there (some by the big-box home centers!) that don't mention the flashing tape Tim uses here. This ought to be illegal! Tim's absolutely right - flash it! Keeping it dry keeps you from having to make structural repairs down the road. As my dad used to say, "Do it right or you'll do it over!"

Tim, Great soundproofing info on your website! I had to build an 8ft x 33in frame in the master bath entry way. The door is 80in tall, which left me with a "16in x 34w x 3.5in" deep cavity to fill. I will be using 5/8in gypsum on both sides of that overhead portion. Can you suggest a medium to fill that cavity with? Soundboard? I hate to buy a roll of insulation for that tiny section. What about minimum expansion foam (how would I insert that?) Thanks again!